Masochistic Early Midlife Crisis - Old Land Rover Content

The joy of basic engineering!

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Great result.

Top job!

What's your solution to standing leaning over the engine bay - I always end up with a sore back working like that and I imagine it's a bigger issue in something high-rise like a Land Rover?

As an aside when I worked at the garage I watched a mechanic get a pillow and place it across the top of the engine to sit on while he was doing some work on a Bentley Eight!

Something I miss is getting my hands dirty, I did do all servicing and repairs myself at one time but at least I can make the tea and get buns.

Had to run out to Eurocarparts this afternoon to get a new battery. I have noticed that it is cranking quite slowly on a morning - especially when left for a few days. I load tested the battery this morning by disconnecting the fuel pump solenoid and cranking it over while connected to my multimeter. 8.5v under load which is a fail even in these temperatures - only a matter of time before it lets me down.

I could have done without the £140 cost, although better than £225 initially quoted the robbing barstewards.

Mum just had the battery in her V70 changed last week as a precaution as she panicked when a "low battery"warning message came up on the dash.... it was the original, over 13 years old, dating from 2004.......

I’ve been busy today.

I had noticed a clunk from the rear. The rear shocks were seemingly free to move about due to the bush washers having disintegrated. Looking at the receipts, it seems they have been on since 2006. Having the roof rack and winch etc, I decided to upgrade the suspension to heavy duty with matching shocks keeping the standard ride height.

The rears were dead easy to change. New galvanised spring seats and heavy duty sping retainers. It ideally needs new upper shock mounts so I have ordered some and will change those later.

The fronts were, to put it mildly, a pig. New springs, galvanised seats, HD retainers and galvanised HD shock turrets. It was the turrets that were the twats to do. Clearance around the inner wing made the job difficult.

It was dark by the time I got cleared up so no photos, but the difference is visually quite noticable. Despite it not being s lift kit, the wheel arch gap is noticably larger - likely down to new, non saggy springs. It drives a lot better too. Inwas expecting it to be crashy with the HD springs, but it is quite smooth and it no longer lurches through bends. Result!

Not such a great result is that I spotted a coolant leak. It is quite a common issue - the P gasket has let go. Unfortunatley, that means the water pump, PAS pump amd alternator have to come off along with the casing they all attach to. Gaskets ordered, but it pissed me off. A quick Google suggests its quite common after replacing the water pump as the casing is held on by some of the water pump bolts. 😡

Do you just have the mechanics trolley permanently fixed to your back?

I almost expected a 'raised on stilts' almost theme but it does not. More a sprinter on blocks. Not that it sprints all that much if memory serves.

Car all fixed amd back on the road.

The steering box was a bit of a chew on - lots of bits to come off in hard to reach places. The new unit went back in without too much trouble apart from getting the fluid lines reconnected without cross threading them. Managed eventually.

There was a last minute dash to my local Land Rover specialist for the bracket that attaches the drag link to the steering damper and drop arm. It was completely seized solid in my old drag link. New heavy duty drag link and track rod installed with new ball joints. Once all that little lot was connected up I could get the box filled with ATF and bled.

Today, I set the tracking (extendable pole with trial and error to get the wheels parrallel) until I can get it checked properly. My local tyre places alleged that they wanted the car for 3 hours and there is no guarantee the tracking would be OK. What a load of bollocks. The tracking procedure is to set the tracking to 0-2 degrees toe out, with the wheels straight ahead, disconnect the drag link amd centralise steering box, re-attach drag link adjusting its length to fit if required. Final step is to set steering wheel to correct position. My LR man can do it in the New Year.

I also managed to change the P gasket. Easy enough job, just lots to remove and put back. Gasket had failed in a corner where one of the water pump bolts holds it in place. Coolant refilled and no leaks. Hopefully that will be it in terms of spannering for the forseeable.

A gauge pod and some auxiliary gauges. Boost, EGT and Tachometer.

Hopefully that little lot won’t involve crawling about on my back getting filthy!

Had something rather worrying the other day. I pulled off the drive and pressed the brake pedal and very little happened! A few pumps of the pedal brought it back.

I checked everything for leaks and there were none, so I ordered a new OEM master cylinder from Paddocks. It duly arrived the other day, but due to the snow and putting my back out, I haven't got around to fitting it yet.

Drove the car yesterday to this photoshoot at Slaley Forest and later to dinner at the local Cantonese. I noticed a scraping noise from the brakes. I narrowed it down to the rears. It appears that the inner rear pad both sides has lost its friction material altogether and there is nothing but the backing plate touching the disc. The outer pad is fine. This explains the lack of brake pedal the other day. What I suspect has happened is the inner piston (two pot caliper) on each side has seized and has overheated the inner brake pad and the friction material has disintegrated and fallen off leaving a gap between pad backing plate and disc. It took several pumps of the pedal to get the backing plate to the disc and brake pressure back up which is why there weren't any leaks and I thought it was an internal leak in the master.

This has annoyingly resulted in the discs being absolutely buggered by the backing plate so these need changing. Brand new OEM Lockheed callipers are only £60 each so I have ordered a pair of those too along with a set of new OEM pads and fitting kits etc. The discs are inboard of the hub which means I have to remove the hub and strip the bearings to replace them but at least I can get some grease into them at the same time.

I checked the fronts to be belt and braces and there is loads of meat on the pads. The discs are about at the minimum thickness so will need changing at the next pad change. Thankfully, front calipers (four pots) seem fine as they are £170 each for new OEM ones.

To be fair to it, that sort of thing could happen with a modern car and sliding calipers. I only replaced the pads last year - Pagid pads from ECP.