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Post by Big Blue on Jun 8, 2017 21:20:44 GMT
Any of you clean-car-fiends tried waterless wash and wax formulas?
If so what did you think and are some products shitter than others?
Considering Smart Polish Pro for a try.
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Post by Martin on Jun 8, 2017 21:31:40 GMT
I use it, but only on my bike between proper cleans. I wouldn't use it on the car, because I'd be concerned about getting swirls on the paintwork. If your paintwork isn't in good condition then it might be OK, but you'd need a few cloths as they get dirty very quickly. I think there are ways of doing a much better job in not much more time.
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Post by Big Blue on Jun 8, 2017 21:48:13 GMT
Hmm. My paintwork is swirl free and some highspeed stone chips are the only real blemishes.
I'll pass on it then.
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Post by Roadsterstu on Jun 9, 2017 0:10:07 GMT
I'd stick with snowfoam. That, or the Chris Martin half a bucket of already used 5 times this week mud soup.
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Post by ChrisM on Jun 9, 2017 7:20:29 GMT
^
I paid to have some magic treatment done on the Kuga and it appears that the sides are self-cleaning in rain. The front and tailgate (and roof) get dirty due to spray, not enough for rainwater to cleanse them unfortunately
BTW the water in the bucket gets changed/replenished regularly and there's plenty of car shampoo in it
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Post by johnc on Jun 9, 2017 7:46:26 GMT
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Post by Martin on Jun 9, 2017 17:27:21 GMT
I drive past the gtechniq head office (small warehouse unit)on the way to work every day and see that they offer a range of services. It's expensive, but tempting.
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Post by johnc on Jun 9, 2017 17:49:23 GMT
I drive past the gtechniq head office (small warehouse unit)on the way to work every day and see that they offer a range of services. It's expensive, but tempting. Crystal Serum has a life of about 5 years and is amazingly hard and resistant to swirls. The EXO top coat is great for keeping the car clean and makes washing so much easier. There is a lot of work involved to do it properly:
1. Wash 2. Decontaminate with tar remover, fallout remover and possible clay bar. 3. Wash again 4. Wipe down all the paintwork fully with panel wipe to remove any oils/previous product. 5. Apply the Crystal Serum (small areas - 1/4 of a large panel at a time), immediate very light removal of excess product and then another cloth to remove any final residue. Takes about an hour. 6. Apply a coat of EXO and a similar buffing routine to CS 7. Apply a second coat of EXO.
You then have to keep it dry for 12 hours at least.
I did 1 and 2 the night before and started early with 3 onwards and I wasn't finished until mid afternoon. They also say it is best done indoors to ensure no water or condensation gets on to it. I have always done it outside and I reckon as long as it gets about 6 hours, it makes little if any difference.
The EXO lasts about a year so you have all stages apart from 5 to do once a year (shouldn't need clay bar) - and you need lots of cloths (about 6 or 8) to do it properly.
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Post by Blarno on Jun 9, 2017 18:20:34 GMT
What's wrong with water?  |
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Post by Martin on Jun 9, 2017 19:13:24 GMT
John - I'm even more convinced that getting the professionals to do it for you is the best plan!
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Post by johnc on Jun 10, 2017 8:57:00 GMT
John - I'm even more convinced that getting the professionals to do it for you is the best plan! Washing and cleaning the car is part of my "clear the head" time when I can totally disconnect with work or other worries. The great thing is that the water beads up every time it rains, just as if it was newly waxed and a quick wash and dry has it looking its best again and you don't need to add anything else for a year. Bird droppings also don't leave marks. |
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Post by Nelson on Jun 10, 2017 9:15:41 GMT
I agree with John, cleaning my car is 'my time' away from work and I can look back when finished and admire even on a 12 year old car
I've never been attracted to waterless wash products, so my routine will never change
Firstly, hose the car down thoroughly (though I have to park the car on the road as close to my house as I can I use a double length hose from an outside tap which still has remarkable water pressure). Hosing down ensures that any fine grit, sand (we have Rugby Cement v close by and the dust storm the chimneys produce is staggering at times) is removed from the car. If I was to go straight in with some soap and water this would only ingrain the fine stuff in more and create swirls, so a good thorugh hosing first.
Then it's a wash with a mitt, one of those mitts that you wear on your hand which has longer strands to capture and keep and particles and a microfibre side for the second wash. I find these mitts particularly good as you can cover a good area and the material is better than a sponge for reducing potential swirls.
I use Triplewax Wash n Wax, a cheap product even available in Wilko's. I've been using it for years and find it's wash very good and it's rain beading wax very effective.
After the initial wash to remove the heavier dirt I use a tar and bug remover and apply some Wonderwheels to the alloys and vigorously work that in and leave it for a few minutes. Once I am satisfied that the alloys have had all the brake dust and dirt removed I rinse with the hose again
Then it's onto the final wash, I use Triplewax again, but I have lately been using Autoglym Shampoo which is probably the best (but I can't afford it all the time - it also smells good). I rinse out my mitt under the hose and wash in straight lines if car so not to create swirls.
I then rinse again with the hose before using a chamois to soak up the water, which isn't tough as the Triplewax stuff does create a good water beading effect.
I then use a clean microfibre cloth to fully dry before using another clean microfibre cloth to apply Autoglym Super Resin Polish and using a separate microfibre cloth to polish it. Once satisfied I have achieved the shine I want, I use Autoglym Gloss Protector, wait the required 30 minutes or so before buffing to a smooth polished finish
Interior is then hoovered and a vinyl surface spray is lightly used on a cloth on the console and plastics. A carpet shampoo is often used, again an Autoglym product and the mats are brushed with a stiff hand brush. Not always, but the part leather seat trim is treated and buffed and is still is very good condition
One thing I always remember to do is turn the interior lights off...little thing but when working with the doors open I don't want a constant power feed, albeit small
It's one job that on a nice day I take hours doing and take pride in doing so. One job I enjoy doing
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Post by Martin on Jun 10, 2017 9:25:25 GMT
John - I'm even more convinced that getting the professionals to do it for you is the best plan! Washing and cleaning the car is part of my "clear the head" time when I can totally disconnect with work or other worries. The great thing is that the water beads up every time it rains, just as if it was newly waxed and a quick wash and dry has it looking its best again and you don't need to add anything else for a year. Bird droppings also don't leave marks. I'm the same. Both cars are pretty well waxed so are almost self cleaning in heavy rain, even driving in it, especially the Boxster which had Swissvax treatment when we bought it and I've topped it up,regularly. The Gtechniq (or similar) application will last a lot longer, but I don't think I'd have the patience or be comfortable enough to do it myself. I had a look at their website and if it's a new car so doesn't need any paint correction, just a polish, then 5 years protection (CSL Black) plus total surface protection (full wheels, interior, exhaust, engine bay, lights etc) etc, is £800 + VAT. It's £880 for 7 year protection and you can take off £235 if you just want the paintwork done. I don't think that's too bad, but the price goes up by another £300 if you need more work on the paint |
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Post by Alex on Jun 10, 2017 10:03:40 GMT
It's not water free but I've found Turtle Wax Liquid Gold to be extremely effective. You wash with it then hose down with regular tap water and leave it to dry naturally. It leave no water marks at all. I've yet to bother polishing the Golf but it will probably need it soon. I've always tended to use Autoglym Super Resin. It needs to be presentable rather than concours so I'm more than happy with this routine. I must admit I do sometimes cheap and run it through an automatic wash first if it's really dirty as I can put it on my fuel card.
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