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Post by Roadrunner on Aug 30, 2020 10:28:10 GMT
Having removed two weeks' worth of holiday filth from the Benz, I am now considering a ceramic coating to preserve its good looks over the winter. I think some on here have gone down that route. Any recommendations?
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Post by johnc on Aug 31, 2020 7:25:52 GMT
I use G-Techniq Crystal Serum Light and follow that up with 2 coats of EXO. It is hard work that needs a bit of care and attention. To do the full job from scratch will take a whole day. I wash the car carefully the night before to get rid of all the dirt in all the places you might otherwise overlook. If it needs it I will also use the tar and glue remover and the fallout remover to get the car properly clean. Start about 7am the next day with another wash and dry (must be totally dry with no water running out of tail gate, mirrors or lights) followed by: 1.Complete wipedown with panel wipe to get rid of any traces of polish or wax 2.Apply Crystal Serum Light (there are good videos on the G-Techniq website) - no more than half a normal panel at a time or maybe 1/4 or 1/6th of the roof or bonnet before wiping and spreading with one microfibre and then totally removing with a second microfibre - do not mix the cloths up (you will need to have about 20 microfibre cloths to do the car and a bucket of soapy water to throw them in after about 2 panels unless you just want to bin them) 3.Once you have finished applying the CSL, have a cup of tea and a break for half an hour and then start with the EXO, applying in the same panel order and the same microfibre routine, then apply a 2nd coat of EXO. The important bit is that you need to remove all the residue of CSL. Look at the car from different angles to make sure you have removed it all before doing the next section because if you don't you will be left with slightly dull patches which will need a machine polish to remove. The microfibre cloth routine might appear excessive but it is necessary: the cloth you use to spread the CSL will quickly get plenty of product on it and if you inadvertently touch a panel, it will leave a small area which will harden and leave a dull spot, so keep looking and use the 2nd cloth to remove any residue you see. Once complete you should really put the car away under cover for the night to give everything a chance to harden fully and I would recommend on washing for at least a week afterwards. The CSL will last about 4 or 5 years and reduces swirling massively. The EXO will last a year to 18 months and I just recoat with EXO every year - that requires a wash, panel wipe (which doesn't harm CSL) and then a couple of coats of EXO. If you don't want to go for the full treatment there are other shorter lasting coatings which are just spray on wipe off, such as G-Techniq C2V4. This works best if the car get a Panel wipe the first time you apply it. It lasts about 2 months in winter and 3 or 4 mths in summer depending on how often you wash the car. If you prefer, you can apply it every month and you will always have a decent protective layer. On the I-Pace I have applied CSL and aim to miss out the EXO stage and just use C2V4 on top every month. EDIT: you get one of these in your CSL pack: gtechniq.com/products/auto/perfect/exterior/paint/ap2-ultra-soft-foam-filled-microfibre-applicatorThis should be all you need but I would always recommend buying at least another in case it gets dirty from window rubbers etc or gets dropped |
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Post by Martin on Aug 31, 2020 10:32:42 GMT
I’m sure the results are great, but that’s a lot of effort and when I’ve considered it in the past I’ve always been concerned that it’s tricky to get right. If getting a ceramic coating, then I’d have it done professionally, especially on a used car which will probably need a full machine polish first. I use Bildt Hamber double speed was, as it’s quick and easy to apply, looks good and lasts a decent amount of time vs the effort required. You don’t need to worry about being completely in the shade, can do a couple of panels a time before buffing and it takes about 30mins to wax the Golf and lasts 3-4 months before it needs a top up. The RR didn’t take much longer thanks to nearly all the roof being glass. Based on the 7, I’d expect it to last a good 2 months, it will protect for longer but if you do it that frequently it will just need a quick top up. I have the RR a quick top up before we left for holiday and despite it raining a couple of times while it was parked and driving in the rain for 30mins, it still looks clean as the heavy rain cleaned it up thanks to how slick the paintwork is. Some info www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-group-tests/63776/best-car-wax-and-sealant-2020?amp |
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Post by Martin on Aug 31, 2020 11:02:19 GMT
Taken this morning after over a week of mixed weather  |
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Post by johnc on Aug 31, 2020 11:22:31 GMT
It is the super hard surface that CSL leaves that is the biggest advantage because the car really resists swirling etc. EXO is super slick (much more than any wax I have used and I still have about 10 left after a clear out) and water just flies off the car.
It definitely keeps the car cleaner and makes it easier to wash but it isn't some magic potion to keep the car permanently clean. The car will still get dirty but it is a bit easier to get it clean again and it always has a great gloss on the paintwork. A good cleaning routine is still required though (snowfoam/pressure wash before going near it with a wash mitt) otherwise I wouldn't bother. I am just a sucker for shiny things and when my cars get to 4 or 5 years old no-one believes their age, so it must work. It keeps this simple man happy and lets me forget all the worries of life.
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Post by Martin on Aug 31, 2020 11:46:53 GMT
I’ve been tempted and if I though I was going to keep a car for longer than 3 years, then I’d go for a good ceramic coating. But I’d have it done professionally with a decent machine polish first, especially if it’s a few years old.
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Post by chipbutty on Sept 5, 2020 18:56:07 GMT
Bingo, as John has outlined, there is a huge amount of prep and patience involved if protecting a new car that hasn’t been marred or swirled by the dealer or manufacturer.
On a red car that is a few years old, it’s going to need a higher level of decontamination and clear coat correction with machines (which is quite skilled if you have never done it yourself), unless you want the coating to fail to bond (or want to lock in the swirls).
The one thing that bothers me about ceramic coating is just how tough and durable they actually are. I am forever polishing out minor scratches, scuffs and abrasions in the clear coat (G3 to the rescue) that happen during daily duties, but I wonder how easy that process would be if the paint is ceramic coated. If the coating didn’t prevent the damage, it’s still going to make correcting it a massive pain in the boobs.
There are new ceramic type products available that claim to be a good half way house, the turtle wax one was highly recommended and I bought some to try. I was initially impressed, but it hasn’t lasted long and is most definitely not delivering ceramic coating type benefits. It was also more work than usual to add as the panel needs to be completely dry (which they never are because water always gets trapped somewhere).
So I have just decided to stick with my holy trinity of Aqua Wax (goes on wet panel, makes drying a piece of piss) and then G3 scratch remover and super resin for any correction and enhancement.
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Post by michael on Sept 5, 2020 19:15:28 GMT
Mine has a Williams ceramic coat provided at the dealership. I understand ceramic can be hit and miss as it’s all down to the preparation. I had a friend working at the dealership at the time and I know they’re fastidious about the quality of what they hand over. In my case the car was being prepared over four days but that included things like painting the brake disk hubs. The product has lasted well keeping swirls at bay but it’s no miracle coating - it still needs to be cleaned. It’s just that it comes up so much better when you do it.
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Post by Sav on Sept 5, 2020 22:19:34 GMT
As has already been said, the key to a successful ceramic coating is the preparation. For that, someone with a well-lit garage or studio helps a lot. That will allow the detailer to see scratches and swirls that ordinarily would be disguised in natural daylight. Let them work on it for a few days if need be. Better that, compared to paying for a quick solution that isn't actually that great.
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Post by chipbutty on Sept 6, 2020 8:22:01 GMT
If I was going to pay a professional, this is who I would choose
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Post by PG on Sept 7, 2020 7:43:05 GMT
Bingo, as John has outlined, there is a huge amount of prep and patience involved if protecting a new car that hasn’t been marred or swirled by the dealer or manufacturer. So I have just decided to stick with my holy trinity of Aqua Wax (goes on wet panel, makes drying a piece of piss) and then G3 scratch remover and super resin for any correction and enhancement. Another Aqua Wax user here. |
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